Kaiyodo Dinotales Variants, Re-issues or Fakes?

[docronnie]

Recently I acquired a lot of Kaiyodo Dinotales figures, many of which are duplicates of I already have.  But on close examination, they are different.

I found out that Series One has 2 versions, but version one has re-molded or just slightly differently painted re-issues, which on close examination is determined by a dot after the number, Example: Suchomimus


This model has 009 (no dot after the number).


This model has 009.

See the difference in paint job?

Here are some Series 2 figures, but the dot appears after UHA:


Left has KAIYODO 033. UHA.
Right has KAIYODO 033. UHA
pegs are different, color of stand on the right are all green etc.


Left has KAIYODO 038. UHA. and has better details
Right has KAIYODO 038. UHA
Their heads and bodies were molded differently.


Can't see clearly the difference on the markings but they are marked differently inside (arrangement of the words).
Differences in the molds and the one on the left has better details.

Hope someone could shed some light on these accidental discoveries.  TIA!

[DinoLord]

The Dinotales figures do tend to have some variation in colouration and casting, especially in the older series. The Series 1 Version A T. rex is a good example of the former. There seem to be two slightly different variants of that one, both of which share the basic orange and yellow color palette but differ slightly in the details.

Series 1 did have two paint versions released, but the second versions are completely different patterns and color schemes.

Good call on the molding variations in the Series 2 figures. I had only previously noticed molding differences between Versions A and B of the Series 1 Axelrodichthys. The pectoral fins do not attach very well on Version A, while on Version B they are cast as one piece instead of two separate ones and fit into the slot much better.

[docronnie]

Thanks Dinolord!

Series One has, as we know it, A and B versions. But l believe the first batches of version A can be differentiated from the second batches through the dot I mentioned, which could be a great help to figure hunters.

There is no way of telling the difference, if you only have one figure, except for that dot after the number (series one ) and after UHA (series 2).

I became curious because I  wanted to trade or sell my extras, so I started to examine the Brachiosaurus figures above, which I got in figure forms already. The one on the left has better details, so I dismantled both figures and to my surprise, the left Brachio has better plastic too and they have different molds! :-O

[SBell]

Thanks Dinolord!

Series One has, as we know it, A and B versions. But l believe the first batches of version A can be differentiated from the second batches through the dot I mentioned, which could be a great help to figure hunters.

There is no way of telling the difference, if you only have one figure, except for that dot after the number (series one ) and after UHA (series 2).

I became curious because I  wanted to trade or sell my extras, so I started to examine the Brachiosaurus figures above, which I got in figure forms already. The one on the left has better details, so I dismantled both figures and to my surprise, the left Brachio has better plastic too and they have different molds! :-O

Technically,the First Dinotales is Series 1. The re-release is Series 1v2. You can identify the molds from that line as they have a . after the numbers.
And many of them--like the Axelrodichthys and Dimetrodn, have had their pieces redesigned.

The variations in colour are usually due to the hand-painting process. The different colours of the Struthiomimus base are a bit surprising, but maybe they wree less picky (S1v2 was released after S2, which includes the Smilodon and Struthiomimus). The variation in the molds could be that there are more than one molds producing the pieces during the run.

[docronnie]

I just re-checked them now. You only see the a or b on the brochures but not on the molds.

[docronnie]

Finally pulled apart the Series 2 Stegos and indeed they have different molds.  As I said, there is no way of knowing, if you only have one and now if you have not read this topic. 

For Kaiyodos with bases, it is easy.  All you have to do is to locate that dot or period.  For those without bases, you have to pry them open, to see the marks.



For sure the molds are different.
Left: KAIYODO 029. UHA
Right: KAIYODO 029. UHA. this mark is also upside down. - I like this better.

My assumption and conclusion after prying open a lot these figures, the ones without the dot or period were the first batches made, then the ones with dots or periods had improvements in molds or paint job.

Kindly post your discoveries too, so we could help each other when hunting for these figures.  TIA and Happy Hunting! 

[docronnie]

Finally fixed the photos here ...

[CityRaptor]

I have two brown Tyrannosaurus figures from series 7. They were from the same set, seller and aquired at the same time. Yet they are different shades of brown.

[DC]

There were certainly more than one set of UHA molds. The Dimetrodon is another good example.  If the molds were made of Latex or other perishable media then mold fatigue would have made new molds a requirement. The Marx molds have lasted incredibly long but they were steel mold and by todays standards expensive. Given how reconstructions change along the public desire for variants, and in modern technology you do not have to destroy the master in creating a mold, short lived molds may make better business sense.  It certainly adds subtlety to collecting.

[docronnie]

I have two brown Tyrannosaurus figures from series 7. They were from the same set, seller and aquired at the same time. Yet they are different shades of brown.

Interesting .... first time I heard of in series 7.

If you have photos, please do share them.

Thanks for the info CityRaptor!

[docronnie]

There were certainly more than one set of UHA molds. The Dimetrodon is another good example.  If the molds were made of Latex or other perishable media then mold fatigue would have made new molds a requirement. The Marx molds have lasted incredibly long but they were steel mold and by todays standards expensive. Given how reconstructions change along the public desire for variants, and in modern technology you do not have to destroy the master in creating a mold, short lived molds may make better business sense.  It certainly adds subtlety to collecting.

Thanks for sharing, DC!

[CityRaptor]

I have two brown Tyrannosaurus figures from series 7. They were from the same set, seller and aquired at the same time. Yet they are different shades of brown.

Interesting .... first time I heard of in series 7.

If you have photos, please do share them.

Thanks for the info CityRaptor!

You are welcome.



Can't get them out of the display case at the moment, but I hope this helps.

[DinoToyForum]

Thanks for fixing the photos in this important and useful thread. I missed this topic first time around and had no idea, so it was worth the bump anyway! 

[docronnie]

Thanks for the photo CityRaptor!  A great help indeed. 

You're most welcome Admin Adam.  Well ... I owe this forum a lot, and this is just a little contribution on my part.