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avatar_Stegotyranno420

Stegotyranno's customizing problems PLEASE HELP

Started by Stegotyranno420, July 10, 2020, 04:19:06 AM

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Stegotyranno420

Hello, im trying to accomplish these two things for under 10 bucks.
 
  Mold/Cast dinosaur figures
  Try to make a water effect in my plastic box diorama.


Help me please


Stegotyranno420

And another very improtant thing.
Im usng super sculpey on a geoworld figure to modify it. How do i cure the clay. I need awnser ASAP

Lanthanotus

You unfortunately can't. Super Sculpey is to be baked at 130 degree Fahrenheit for like 15 min per cm depth....that would render any toy figure a blob of plastic mud.

What you need to do customization on the figure is an epoxy sculpting mass like Green Stuff or Fixit Sculpt.

Stegotyranno420

Quote from: Lanthanotus on July 12, 2020, 10:50:40 AM
You unfortunately can't. Super Sculpey is to be baked at 130 degree Fahrenheit for like 15 min per cm depth....that would render any toy figure a blob of plastic mud.

What you need to do customization on the figure is an epoxy sculpting mass like Green Stuff or Fixit Sculpt.
Will this work if you boil the clay

DinoToyForum

There are some great youtube videos by avatar_Kayakasaurus @Kayakasaurus about this. Here's one for the water effect: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sScbW7xH9gs
Check out his channel.


Stegotyranno420

Quote from: dinotoyforum on July 12, 2020, 11:55:50 AM
There are some great youtube videos by avatar_Kayakasaurus @Kayakasaurus about this. Here's one for the water effect: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sScbW7xH9gs
Check out his channel.
Thanks but the problem is that the water effects cost me more than my bugdet.
I was asking for subsitute for resin

Lanthanotus

Well, boiling occurs at 100 degrees Fahrenheit, but while you can increase boiling temperature with salt I am unaware what it takes to be increased up to 130 degrees and if that would work with the sculpting mass and the figure - I personally doubt it.

If you want to add something, like additional horns or so, sculpt them on the figure, take them off, bake it and glue them in place. However, to fill gaps, change limbs etc. you need to use the proper material to get the results you are looking for.

Depending on the kind of water effect you want to achieve, there`s several methods. Youtube is a good source. If you just want the surface of water, you can work with just toilet paper, cheap white glue and some paint (blue or so and white). If you want those underwater effects, there`s basically only resin. Not every resin is expensive, if you use the "water effect resin" for modellers, then you sure go the expensive way. If you use "acrylic water" for floral arrangements or epoxy resins for technical purposes, you usually can go much cheaper. Though you have to bear in mind, that not all resins can be poured to the same depth, without working in layers. Also, you can use "clear soap" (glycerine soap). It comes in bars which you need to melt and pour. However, the resulting "water body" will not be crystal clear as with resins and the surface will remain somewhat sticky, as with your usual soap bar.

Stegotyranno420

Quote from: Lanthanotus on July 12, 2020, 02:07:55 PM
Well, boiling occurs at 100 degrees Fahrenheit, but while you can increase boiling temperature with salt I am unaware what it takes to be increased up to 130 degrees and if that would work with the sculpting mass and the figure - I personally doubt it.

If you want to add something, like additional horns or so, sculpt them on the figure, take them off, bake it and glue them in place. However, to fill gaps, change limbs etc. you need to use the proper material to get the results you are looking for.

Depending on the kind of water effect you want to achieve, there`s several methods. Youtube is a good source. If you just want the surface of water, you can work with just toilet paper, cheap white glue and some paint (blue or so and white). If you want those underwater effects, there`s basically only resin. Not every resin is expensive, if you use the "water effect resin" for modellers, then you sure go the expensive way. If you use "acrylic water" for floral arrangements or epoxy resins for technical purposes, you usually can go much cheaper. Though you have to bear in mind, that not all resins can be poured to the same depth, without working in layers. Also, you can use "clear soap" (glycerine soap). It comes in bars which you need to melt and pour. However, the resulting "water body" will not be crystal clear as with resins and the surface will remain somewhat sticky, as with your usual soap bar.
thanks Lanthantotus. Any thing on molding and casting,

Kayakasaurus

Molding and casting is somewhat expensive. If you search Proto Putty in Youtube you'll find videos on a DIY silicone putty which you can press objects into. There is also a product called amazing re melt which is a molding material that can be poured and re melted. I haven't tried these options yet.

To make a good mold it's hard to replace liquid silicone. Smooth on's least expensive is called Oomoo ($25-30) and while I used it for years Mold Star and Mold Max are much stronger.

I used floral resin on my first water base because I was on a budget and I could afford it combined with a 40% off coupon at Hobby Lobby. It took forever to solidify and has a rubbery finish that can get dusty, so not ideal but it can work.
Protocasts Dinosaur Models http://youtube.com/c/kayakasaurus

Stegotyranno420

Quote from: Kayakasaurus on July 12, 2020, 10:50:46 PM
Molding and casting is somewhat expensive. If you search Proto Putty in Youtube you'll find videos on a DIY silicone putty which you can press objects into. There is also a product called amazing re melt which is a molding material that can be poured and re melted. I haven't tried these options yet.

To make a good mold it's hard to replace liquid silicone. Smooth on's least expensive is called Oomoo ($25-30) and while I used it for years Mold Star and Mold Max are much stronger.

I used floral resin on my first water base because I was on a budget and I could afford it combined with a 40% off coupon at Hobby Lobby. It took forever to solidify and has a rubbery finish that can get dusty, so not ideal but it can work.
.
So you are saying if I use the protoputty technique it won't be a good mold.
And also can you make a mold of some sculpture that is unbaked because I do not want to put it in my oven.


Kapitaenosavrvs

#10
Quote from: Stegotyranno on July 10, 2020, 04:19:06 AM
Hello, im trying to accomplish these two things for under 10 bucks.
 
  Mold/Cast dinosaur figures
  Try to make a water effect in my plastic box diorama.


Help me please

Have a read in my Diorama Thread. I did supercheap Watereffects with PVA Glue, Toiletpaper and Paints. Maybe not, what you're looking for, but building Stuff is not always cheap.

Also: Wax could be used as water. Not clear Water, but you can try it out, until you have a bit more Money to Spend. Also, you'll learn things. Thats how i do it.

Justin_

You can try making shallow water, like puddles, with layers of PVA or varnish.

What type of sculpey have you got? I think you would be better off using it to build a copy of the figure you're wanting to mold and cast. You can also use the sculpey to make texture stamps from the original.

Even the cheapest molding and casting materials such as wax and plaster are going to be beyond your budget for the quantity you'll need, especially as you'll be wasting a lot as you learn the process.

Stegotyranno420

Quote from: Justin_ on July 13, 2020, 12:37:23 PM
You can try making shallow water, like puddles, with layers of PVA or varnish.

What type of sculpey have you got? I think you would be better off using it to build a copy of the figure you're wanting to mold and cast. You can also use the sculpey to make texture stamps from the original.

Even the cheapest molding and casting materials such as wax and plaster are going to be beyond your budget for the quantity you'll need, especially as you'll be wasting a lot as you learn the process.
I got super Sculpey and im trying to cast a Geoworld figure (tyrannosaurus) which i modified into a rajasaurus, using Super Sculpey Medium and Super Sculpey Original. Its finished but its not cured/hardened, and i cant just take them of because they where like smeared into the figure, and i will have to start over again.

Stegotyranno420

Quote from: Kapitaenosavrvs on July 13, 2020, 10:50:36 AM
Quote from: Stegotyranno on July 10, 2020, 04:19:06 AM
Hello, im trying to accomplish these two things for under 10 bucks.
 
  Mold/Cast dinosaur figures
  Try to make a water effect in my plastic box diorama.


Help me please

Have a read in my Diorama Thread. I did supercheap Watereffects with PVA Glue, Toiletpaper and Paints. Maybe not, what you're looking for, but building Stuff is not always cheap.

Also: Wax could be used as water. Not clear Water, but you can try it out, until you have a bit more Money to Spend. Also, you'll learn things. Thats how i do it.
I now that trick saw it last night. But can i replace the PVA glue with ELmers glue

Lanthanotus

I am unaware of the specific ingedients in Elmer`s Glue, but it is "white glue", so chance is, it is based on PVA (polyvinyl acetate) as "all" the others. But yes, it does not matter, you could also use wallpaper paste, important thing is it is water based, softens paper and can be painted after the glue/paper mixture is hardened. Also, while it certainly helps to get some advices here and there, trying some stuff on your own is what makes an experienced modeller ;)

Justin_

Quote from: Stegotyranno on July 13, 2020, 06:38:40 PM
...... im trying to cast a Geoworld figure (tyrannosaurus) which i modified into a rajasaurus, using Super Sculpey Medium and Super Sculpey Original. Its finished but its not cured/hardened, and i cant just take them of because they where like smeared into the figure, and i will have to start over again.

I reckon if the figure isn't going to be handled so there isn't risk of damage you should just paint over the uncured sculpey to seal the surface. Maybe leave it untouched for a while before you do this, so the sculpey will be as hard as it is in the box again.

Stegotyranno420

Quote from: Justin_ on July 14, 2020, 02:55:42 PM
Quote from: Stegotyranno on July 13, 2020, 06:38:40 PM
...... im trying to cast a Geoworld figure (tyrannosaurus) which i modified into a rajasaurus, using Super Sculpey Medium and Super Sculpey Original. Its finished but its not cured/hardened, and i cant just take them of because they where like smeared into the figure, and i will have to start over again.

I reckon if the figure isn't going to be handled so there isn't risk of damage you should just paint over the uncured sculpey to seal the surface. Maybe leave it untouched for a while before you do this, so the sculpey will be as hard as it is in the box again.
How about sun drying the clay. Thats what many native Americans did for their own clay. (altough im aware 21 century plastic type clay is vastly different from the terra cotta of the bygone old days)

You can support the Dinosaur Toy Forum by making dino-purchases through these links to Ebay and Amazon. Disclaimer: these and other links to Ebay.com and Amazon.com on the Dinosaur Toy Forum are often affiliate links, so when you make purchases through them we may make a commission.