Customising Hints, Tips and FAQs

[paleoferroequine]

   No. CA glues will cure unevenly and may very well dry with whitish crystals. Think of that crust that forms on the tip. Of coarse somebody else may well have done it but I tried it long ago and it didn't work.

[Pachyrhinosaurus]

   No. CA glues will cure unevenly and may very well dry with whitish crystals. Think of that crust that forms on the tip. Of coarse somebody else may well have done it but I tied it long ago and it didn't work.

Thank you for the information. I just realized I have extra mod-podge. Would that work?

[paleoferroequine]

   No. CA glues will cure unevenly and may very well dry with whitish crystals. Think of that crust that forms on the tip. Of coarse somebody else may well have done it but I tried it long ago and it didn't work.

Thank you for the information. I just realized I have extra mod-podge. Would that work?

Yes, as long as it's gloss. What I do whether it's a stream or a pond or lake, is paint the very center dark greenish black and gradually blend it lighter towards the shore where I use a muddy olive drab color. I use acrylic paint and keep it wet so it blends very gradually not in bands. Then you can apply three or four coats of Modge Podge. Modge Podge can be textured to represent ripples and current.

[Pachyrhinosaurus]

Thank you. I will retouch it with the greens since mine is mostly mixed browns.

[pylraster]

Not sure if this has been posted, but I find this video very helpful. I think it's a Lindberg Dilophosaurus. All hand-brushing.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=b19ioHg8O3s
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UDeU8YjD4jc

[Raptoress]

Hi, guys! I've recently bought a Geoworld Troodon and I would like to re-paint it as I find the paint job garish whilst the sculpt I like. I've seen that a new paint job can really bring out the sculpt so I want to attempt my first job at re-painting. It's going to be re-painted to look like the Troodon in my profile picture.

However, I am literally a complete n00b to this. I have a few questions that I need answering ASAP.

What paint should I use?
Do I need to use any specific brushes?
Can I just paint over the current paint job or do I have to get the original paint off? If so, how do I do this?

Any other tips would be great. Thank you! ^^

[Tyto_Theropod]

Lovely to hear from someone else who's just getting started. I've done a few repaints over the years, but compared to people like Copper and Himapaan I'm an amateur. Anyway, hopefully I can help... apologies for incoming text barage!

I currently use bog standard hobby acrylic paints from my local Ryman (you can probably find similar ones in other stationers and in craft stores), and they've always worked for me. You can also go for a quality brand like Tamiya if you wish. In the end it's really up your preferences and your budget. However, I would not recommend Windsor & Newton as my early dinosaur repaints were done with these and they flaked terribly! Also avoid enamel paints, as I've heard they can be toxic and sometimes don't dry properly, instead giving the plastic a gooey texture.

I would recommend that you use hair brushes of reasonable quality, but again it doesn't have to be anything too costly. You'll need some different sizes: quite big ones to apply base coats and cover large areas, medium ones for adding different tones and very fine ones for applying fine details such as when painting teeth and claws. When it comes to tiny, fine details like the pupil of the eye I use the end of a cocktail stick as it means I'm less likely to mess it up. I've also been known to dab on paint with kitchen roll to when I need to create an uneven, natural look. I know that some people airbrush/spray paint their models, but again this is personal preference. I don't do it simply because it's expensive and there are safety precautions, and brush painting works for natural looking colour schemes.

When painting the model, apply very thin layers of paint, even if this means it takes several coats to apply the colour. If the paint is too thick, detail will be lost. You can dilute the paint with water or a specially made medium. As well as brushing on the paint, I find that a technique called stippling helps the new colours to look natural. Stippling essentially means painting with just the tips of the brush hairs by dabbing them onto what you're painting. It's hard to explain but I'm sure there are plenty of videos on Youtube.

You can usually remove the factory paint with acetone applied by cotton wool or a cotton bud (q-tip for our American friends), but this will melt some plastics so it's recommended you wash it off after it's done its job. I tend not to bother removing the factory paint as it's generally applied pretty thinly and doesn't get in the way of the details. However, I would recommend that you wash the model in warm water before you begin painting, as this will remove dust (that would get stuck under the paint and create ugly lumps) and factory oils (which might stop the paint from sticking). If the paint still doesn't stick, you could try sanding the model lightly or spraying it with a sealant.

I recommend that you do this at the end of painting as well as it helps the paint to stay on. I spray my repainted models with Testors Dullcote, which gives them a nice matte finish. The downside is that, again, you have to use a well ventilated area (in my case that means outside!) and leave the models there while it's drying as it produces fumes (it's perfectly safe when dry). There are also similar products you can use, but Dullcote was the easiest for me to obtain. You can also apply gloss varnish to the eyes and inside the mouth (if it's open), which makes them look wet and alive.

Most of all, however, have fun!

[copper]

Tyto_Theropod, I didn't see you mentioning using primers before applying paint. Priming the models with primers helps the paint adhere better and I recommend using them.

[Tyto_Theropod]

Sorry copper, I forgot to mention primers as I don't use them. The one that's most readily available to me gives me an allergic reaction that makes my hands swell up, so it's not ideal and I've never had a problem doing without. Of course there are (probably less effective) alternatives like lightly sanding the model or sealing it before painting to give your paint some 'tooth'! However, this is just me and my stupid allergies and I'm sure that primers are a good idea otherwise!

[stargatedalek]

I don't typically use primers either, I find that a layer of paint underneath the final paint can give you the same results.

[pylraster]

Matter of preference. I would prefer primers though I had instances where it obscured a lot of detail. I would recommend them for a full repaint or if painting lighter colors over darker ones.

[tyrantqueen]

Matter of preference. I would prefer primers though I had instances where it obscured a lot of detail. I would recommend them for a full repaint or if painting lighter colors over darker ones.

Agreed, but I would add that if your primer is obscuring detail, you are applying too much, or you should try a different brand. A decent primer will not do that.

This is why I prefer brush on primers. In addition to being less toxic, you have a much greater degree of control over how much you want to apply. Aerosol primers are quicker but it is very easy to clog up details if you're not very experienced with them.

Nowadays I prime everything I paint. It gives me a blank canvas to work from.

[Tyto_Theropod]

I don't typically use primers either, I find that a layer of paint underneath the final paint can give you the same results.

Agreed. I tend to start with a few thin coats of slightly watered-down acrylic to establish a base colour. It can be dark, pale, anything, whatever works best for the colour scheme I'm doing.

[smashtoad]

I'm new to the dino figure re-paint game, but have been dabbling in art for a long time.  Here are my two cents, as I feel I learned a lot from my first paint (my Pachyrhinosaurus).

First, any tips from someone like Copper or Doug Watson should be seriously considered.  I had tried this "hobby" in the past with assorted action figures, and had given up.  Turns out I was using cheap craft acrylics.  I read recently Copper's warning about these paints, went out and bought some good acrylics, and Bam...now it's game on.  I never considered for all these years the difference could be that great.  It is.

Secondly, there is a very good reason that primers are usually gray.  Gray is the ultimate neutral color, and whether you go with a lighter or darker scheme, it is the best (in my view) starting point.  It also eliminates pretty much any need to remove original paint.  If covered with a varying degree of gray primer coat, the original paint scheme will do nothing but enhance the final look of the piece.

Unless you are painting fine detailed stripes or spotted areas, I would rarely drag a brush across my piece.  Everything is stippled (tap tap tap), as mentioned by Tyto earlier in this thread.  Start with gray down the dorsal surface along the spine, then down the exterior legs, then the sides of the neck, body, and tail.  The ventral surface will often need very little gray, as it is usually a lighter surface and can be easily manipulated in any direction.

Once the gray is good and dry...then it's time to get your fun on...just try to always go progressively lighter to darker.  However, a light stippled covering of a pastel blue, green, tannish or brown on the whole piece between more detailed coats can add a depth to the paint job you may not otherwise get.  That Pachy has like 5 coats of paint on it. gray, light brown, darker blues, and a couple of greens I think.  You'll never get realistic shades by painting an animal one color...gotta mix it up.

As soon as I finished the pachy I dove onto my big Sebulba.  I'm a big Sebulba fan...just love the morphological concept of a creature that walks on its hands and manipulates items with its feet.  Here's his original skin paint...



Here it is after a stippling of gray, a black wash, light blue, magenta, and then a light hit of a darker blue...I also hit his spots with tan somewhere in the middle...they're muted, but still there.



The difference may seem subtle in the pics, but it is not when you view him in whole.





Sorry for the novella, hope this helps someone.

[Kayakasaurus]

That's one good looking dug, big improvement!

[smashtoad]

That's one good looking dug, big improvement!

Ha!  Nobody putting this stud in chains!

[empire3569]

This was a big help! I just took your advice about stippling various colors and applied it to my CollectA spinosaurus repaint, and it made a HUGE difference! Thank you so much for the detailed explanation and pics!   

[Edited by Admin to delete quoted pictures ]

[smashtoad]

This was a big help! I just took your advice about stippling various colors and applied it to my CollectA spinosaurus repaint, and it made a HUGE difference! Thank you so much for the detailed explanation and pics!   

[Edited by Admin to delete quoted pictures ]

Awesome...let's see it when you're done.

[Nanuqsaurus]

I've some questions for repainters! I've painted model aircraft before, and practiced on some chinasaur toys, but now I want to do some serious dinosaur repainting. I'm planning to repaint my Schleich Torosaurus, which is a nice model but with awfully dull colors. I'm sure a nice repaint would do the model justice. However, I'm afraid I'll mess up the painting and ruin the model. Here's a picture of the original Schleich Torosaurus (it's not my picture, it actually comes from the review on this blog):


I want it to look like this awesome drawing by Smnt2000 from DeviantArt:


So here are my questions:
1. I have the colors I need for this, but it's Revell paint I used for painting model aircraft. I'm not sure if these paints are suitable for this kind of job. I mean, they are made for painting plastic models, so I'd say they're as good as any, but when I used them to repaint a Styracosaurus toy, it became a bit too sticky and glossy. Do you think I could use these paints for repainting my Torosaurus? Would it work if I dilute them?

2. How do I make the fine lines, like the black ones in the drawing? I have some very small brushes which seem to be good for this, but how do I get the lines so smooth?

3. The colors in the drawing are pretty flat, which kinda works since it seems to be based on the coloration of the oryx and other gazelles. I think this makes the repainting much easier because I don't know to paint gradient colors. But how do I prevent it from getting too dull? A large part of the body will be completely grey. Should I use diluted black paint for the details like skin folds? I used this technique on model aircraft before and it often made them look much better.

4. I have an airbrush laying around somewhere, it's a pretty useful tool for painting models, but it's mostly for large surfaces. Would it be suitable for this repaint? Do you use an airbrush at all or only normal paint brushes?

I would be very thankful if someone with more experience could give me answers! I really don't want to mess up a dinosaur from my collection, I only want to start the repainting when I'm sure it will look good.

[tyrantqueen]

1. There's no reason why you can't use Revell if you really want.  Make sure you're using the acrylics though, not the enamels. Those do not dry on soft plastic.

2. I guess just practice and a steady hand. I prefer kolinsky sable hair brushes, because the tip is better than anything you can get with a synthetic. But that's personal preference.

3. Try layering your paints. Start with a medium base colour, do a dry brush over it and a dark wash in the crevices. This will prevent the paintjob from looking too flat. Modelling 101, really.

4. Can't comment because I've never used an airbrush and don't have any plans to do so.

I think you'd better practise on a chinasaur first, to be honest. You will end up messing it up, almost guaranteed. No-one learns to ride a bike on their first try.