Shapeways For Dummies

[ZoPteryx]

Hello everyone!  I am finally planning to get some Shapeways figures, there's just one problem, I know next to nothing about them!

So I thought I would establish this thread as a place for those who are new to Shapeways and have questions.

My questions are:
- What are the different types of plastics and what are their different advantages?
- Can they be painted with hand paints, or will that destroy/obscure the details?
- Any helpful tips with regards to repair, maintenance, paint prep, etc.
- Who are your favorite artists?

Thanks in advance!

The Shapeways site is here: http://www.shapeways.com/

[tyrantqueen]

My questions are:
- What are the different types of plastics and what are their different advantages?
- Can they be painted with hand paints, or will that destroy/obscure the details?
- Any helpful tips with regards to repair, maintenance, paint prep, etc.
- Who are your favorite artists?

1. I can't comment on all the materials, because I have not tried them all. I have only tried WSF, WSF polished, Frosted Detail and Frosted Ultra Detail. There are a lot of different ones, and not all of them are worth trying in my opinion (for example, I don't think the ceramic material would be a good choice at all...)

WSF is okay for beginners, but I think it's horrible to paint. I would compare it to trying to paint very fine sandpaper. It's sort of "fuzzy" and that's how the details get obscured. After a few layers, the coarseness of the material does fill in completely, and the smoothness improves. However, that still might not be enough for everyone.

I originally started with WSF too, but I've bought a couple of frosted detail material lately and I've started to change my mind about it. It's much nicer to paint, and allows for more detail. Here's a comparison I took of two velociraptor models by Aaron Doyle, one in WSF and the other in Frosted Detail.



Bear in mind, the detail materials can get very expensive.

For more information, go here: http://www.shapeways.com/materials

2. Yes, they can be painted. Depending on the material you choose, your success at painting may vary. Shapeways recommends acrylics, which I also prefer. More information here: http://www.shapeways.com/tutorials/painting3dprintedsls

3. The frosted materials tend to be more brittle, but I have not had any problems with any of my models breaking (but bear in mind, these are not toys, so they should not be treated as such) They can be easily repaired with superglue if a breakage occurs. I like to prime my models before painting, because I think it helps the paint to stick, and improves smoothness...but it's entirely optional of course.

4. Aaron Doyle, Manuel Bejarano, Eric Thorson, Galileo Hernandez, and razh00

These are all my opinions of course. There are some members who are happy with WSF and don't want to spend the extra money on the detail materials...and that's perfectly acceptable too.

[amargasaurus cazaui]

I generally tend to go the cheaper route and purchase the WSF material, and in general I cannot recall Martin ever having a problem painting them well for me, although I myself do not paint them . I am sure he likely seals them with a primer before actually painting however to insure the rough texture does not soak up his paint. I have been very happy with the models I have ordered to date, although I also agree with TQ that the polished detail models tend to be more minutely detailed. I have had both WSF models and detail material models break either in printing or shipping however all have taken a repair well.
  As for artists, the big three from our forum are all super talented and great artists....Gorgonzola, Aaron Doyle, and MB, but you might also notice that David Krentz has some figure there on shapeways for sale, and I have so far ordered the anklyosaurus and triceratops both in 1/72 scale and I feel they are two of my nicest models so far. Given that I have to give the Krentz models on Shapeways a nice endorsement as well.

[tanystropheus]

What material is closest to PVC plastic (and still conducive to paint jobs)? While I'm pretty good with my figures and stuff, I have immature guests (relatives and friends) that pick up my items, rearrange them in haphazard ways, sometimes positioning my figures so that they may consummate...Oh, did I say that my guests are immature?

[ZoPteryx]

Thanks for the help TQ and Amarga!   This is good news to me, Shapeways aren't as delicate or quite as expensive as I had initially feared.  I'm still on the fence about which material would best suit me, there's big price differences.  Does anyone know if it's possible "sand" WSF models to get rid of the graininess?

What material is closest to PVC plastic (and still conducive to paint jobs)? While I'm pretty good with my figures and stuff, I have immature guests (relatives and friends) that pick up my items, rearrange them in haphazard ways, sometimes positioning my figures so that they may consummate...Oh, did I say that my guests are immature?

I would assume the WSF, but I'm clearly no expert.

[tyrantqueen]

Does anyone know if it's possible "sand" WSF models to get rid of the graininess?

Not really, no. You'll just end up destroying what surface detail there actually is. You could try the WSF polished material, which is a bit less grainy. But the problems with coarseness and accepting paint are still there.

[postsaurischian]

....... But the problems with ....... accepting paint are still there.

How come you're saying that yet again?
Unfortunately I have not seen one of your painted WSF models, but I have a lot of them and neither Martin Garratt nor copper have mentioned anything about paint problems.
One of them (can't remember who exactly) even once mentioned that he / she liked the soaking effect .

[Gorgonzola]

One of them (can't remember who exactly) even once mentioned that he / she liked the soaking effect .

That would be Niroot - I remember his models taking on a watercolor like effect, a lot of really nice bleed effects in the patterns he painted.

For when I buy test prints for my models, I tend to go for the FUD or FD materials, out of preference more than anything.  I do think they capture detail quite well, but I've noticed that photos people have posted of my models in WSF seem to have the same amount of detail.  Could be the quality of the photograph and the scale of the model though that determines that (TQ has a 1/25 scale version of my Cryolophosaurus in WSF and it looks pretty great, so the size of the model can have an influence on the sort of material that would work best.)

Only drawback to FUD and FD materials is you absolutely need to give it some coat of paint - I tend to give him a light grey spray before I do any painting or photography.

[tyrantqueen]

....... But the problems with ....... accepting paint are still there.

How come you're saying that yet again?
Unfortunately I have not seen one of your painted WSF models, but I have a lot of them and neither Martin Garratt nor copper have mentioned anything about paint problems.
One of them (can't remember who exactly) even once mentioned that he / she liked the soaking effect .

Because it relates to the question Zopteryx asked about graininess. Not everyone like the WSF material, either (for example jtn144). To clarify what I meant about "paint problems", I was referring to the coarseness of the material, and how it does not take paint to my liking (dry brushing is impossible also).

[alexeratops]

I also have a question about shapeways. Is the 1/40 Lirainosaurus bigger, smaller, or the same size as 1/40 Yangchaunosaurus?