fixing warped plastic

[ITdactyl]

*notes to our Admin, please feel free to move this to the appropriate group.  I was searching for a similar thread but couldn't find one.

Hi everyone, 'hope to get your feedback on this matter.

I received a colorata quetzalcoatlus and a dinoriders "pterodactyl" a few months back.  Both, however, did not get much love when they were packed by the seller (to say it politely).  Both had beaks that bend sideways at an almost 45 degree angle (from the normal), and the wings were badly warped.

I first tried the "hair dryer" method, warming them a bit, moving the parts (by hand) to desired position, then dipping in ice water to set.  This fix lasted for a few days, and they then warped back to "out of the package" condition.

I then tried the hot bath method (hot bath, bend to desired position, ice bath to set).  This seemed to fix the issue - and actually lasted for a  few months.  I noticed this week that both are back to the "out of the package" condition though.

I was wondering if there are ways to improve on the first 2 methods I used (and maybe I'm doing something wrong, and you can point it out).  Maybe there are also other methods you can suggest.

Thanks in advance. 

[tyrantqueen]

This is a bit unorthodox, but what about placing the effected part under a heavy weight (like a stack of books for example) and leaving it there for a while?

[Blackdanter]

PVC based plastics seem to almost have a molded shape memory. Usually, placing them in a pyrex type glass vessel and then pouring a freshly boiled kettle around them will have the effect of them popping back into their molded position. I usually then lift them out with say, a fork, and just either hold them under a cold running tap or plunge them into cold water for enough time for the whole thing to be chilled and hold it's shape. This usually works well for Colorata figures which are PVC plastic.

Styrene based and rubber is a different matter. You can do it but will need to repeat it a few times to kind of beat the resistance in the material and you really need higher temperatures for styrene, very close to the melting point of the plastic so I wouldn't advise that anyone without a good amount of experience in working this type of plastic tries it. If you do, I'd suggest either very careful work with a hairdryer or in the oven. As I say, you need to have a good understanding of the melting and breaking point of the plastic to do this and, to be honest, you could destroy a painted styrene figure very easily. I say that because I don't know what Dino Riders are made of but they do look like potentially styrene based plastic to me.

From what you describe with your Colorata, it sounds as though your hot temperature isn't quite high enough. As I said, a freshly boiled kettle should have it spring back into its molded shape. If you're having to manipulate it that is the issue.

[stargatedalek]

the "pterodactyl" (If I'm assuming correctly) is smaller than most other Dinoriders and made of a softer plastic

[ITdactyl]

@stargatedalek: yeah... he's the proxy hang glider (and the poor brother of the rare collector's club version)....  I've been collecting for years and still can't tell plastics apart... lol

@Tyrantqueen: thanks... I'm considering that for the wings.
@Blackdanter: thanks for the advice.  I avoided using freshly boiled water after watching a youtube video warning against it.  But since you mentioned that it'll work for the plastic used by colorata, I might as well give it a go.

[Blackdanter]

I've never had a problem with freshly boiled water. I think the trick is to watch it very carefully and, as soon as the molded shape is resumed, remove it quickly and apply chilled tap water. I've done this with loads of Colorata figures and it works as well on those COG Prehistoric Panorama figures.