Customising Hints, Tips and FAQs

[Himmapaan]

Copper had also posted the tutorial just a post above yours, Daryl. 

Removing the original paint is not necessary and is probably even advised against to save you trouble and avoid damage to the figure. Simply prime over the figure, or, as Copper does, paint an all-covering basecoat in lieu of it.

[tyrantqueen]

thank you for the fast response - that first link takes me to a photo of a trike?

Sorry, brain fart. Here is is http://img41.imageshack.us/img41/9186/tutorialcopper3copy.jpg

[darylj]

thats great thanks.
i do have some model painting experience but never anything of this size.
il post pics up as i go so if any wants to give me some feedback... would be great.
thanks again

[paleoferroequine]

I pretty much agree with what they said but I think your Citadel figure paints will work also. I have some glazes and washes from them that I use. My pref is with bottle acrylics such as Tamiya, Testors, Humbrol, or Vallejo mainly because of the very, very, wide variety of colors that are available. Try tube and bottle and see what you prefer.

[darylj]

thanks paleoferroequine - i inherited a large collection of gw paints, so il try them, but i will grab some tamiya paints and give them a whirl.

[tyrantqueen]

Hey,
I have assembled a few resin, plastic and vinyl kits before, but I struggle most with epoxy putty. My problem is with filling the seams that appear after a model has been glued together. At the moment I use water, putty and my finger to smooth it out.
I'm not really happy with the way it looks afterwards, the putty usually looks "lumpy" no matter how much I smooth it out. Does anyone have any general tips for using epoxy putty for seam filling? What are the best tools to use?
I tried googling for help, but the stuff I found is generally too vague to be of any use 

[Simon]

Hey,
I have assembled a few resin, plastic and vinyl kits before, but I struggle most with epoxy putty. My problem is with filling the seams that appear after a model has been glued together. At the moment I use water, putty and my finger to smooth it out.
I'm not really happy with the way it looks afterwards, the putty usually looks "lumpy" no matter how much I smooth it out. Does anyone have any general tips for using epoxy putty for seam filling? What are the best tools to use?
I tried googling for help, but the stuff I found is generally too vague to be of any use 

You need seam filler.  Here is a link:

http://www.hobbylinc.com/plastic_model_putty

[tyrantqueen]

Hey,
I have assembled a few resin, plastic and vinyl kits before, but I struggle most with epoxy putty. My problem is with filling the seams that appear after a model has been glued together. At the moment I use water, putty and my finger to smooth it out.
I'm not really happy with the way it looks afterwards, the putty usually looks "lumpy" no matter how much I smooth it out. Does anyone have any general tips for using epoxy putty for seam filling? What are the best tools to use?
I tried googling for help, but the stuff I found is generally too vague to be of any use 

You need seam filler.  Here is a link:

http://www.hobbylinc.com/plastic_model_putty

Thanks, although I'm not in the USA so that website is pretty useless I'm also kinda confused- how is the stuff you linked me different than epoxy putty?
I use Superfine Milliput btw.

[paleoferroequine]

Hey,
I have assembled a few resin, plastic and vinyl kits before, but I struggle most with epoxy putty. My problem is with filling the seams that appear after a model has been glued together. At the moment I use water, putty and my finger to smooth it out.
I'm not really happy with the way it looks afterwards, the putty usually looks "lumpy" no matter how much I smooth it out. Does anyone have any general tips for using epoxy putty for seam filling? What are the best tools to use?
I tried googling for help, but the stuff I found is generally too vague to be of any use 

The Testors filler probably won' be a big improvement but it does dry faster.  It is not a two part filler but air dries.  On your side of the pond Humbrol filler putty should be available in hobby shops.  To start with if the joint is straight then lay a piece of  sandpaper flat on the table and carefully sand the joint surface so it ends up perfectly flat.  Do this to both surfaces. It will fit better and may not require putty. When assembling vinyl kits a trick is to use a hairdryer to soften the vinyl and allow you to push the parts together for a better fit.  The other thing to do  if the joint is bad and you can't flatten it, is bevel the edges, don't leave them sharp. I use an X Acto knife or a file. It is much easier to feather the putty and blend the joint. I do this with the conversions where parts are rearranged.  Also where the putty is you have to match it to the area around it.  Either a stamp made of the detail or a tool used to sculpt skin folds or scales.  Here are some of my tools.

[Himmapaan]

What PFE said. Also, it may simply be the brand of putty itself which is giving you trouble. I see you're using Miliput, which I'm afraid I thoroughly loathe. I found it coarse and unresponsive, and when I used more water to help, it simply slipped away like mud. It does well enough just filling gaps, but I couldn't sculpt happily with it or refine it enough for joins. I don't know if it might help if you left it for a while to actually start curing before trying to smooth it out. Otherwise, I recommend something like Aves Apoxie Sculpt for future projects. You will notice the difference by leagues.

[paleoferroequine]

What PFE said. Also, it may simply be the brand of putty itself which is giving you trouble. I see you're using Miliput, which I'm afraid I thoroughly loathe. I found it coarse and unresponsive, and when I used more water to help, it simply slipped away like mud. It does well enough just filling gaps, but I couldn't sculpt happily with it or refine it enough for joins. I don't know if it might help if you left it for a while to actually start curing before trying to smooth it out. Otherwise, I recommend something like Aves Apoxie Sculpt for future projects. You will notice the difference by leagues.

I've not used Milliput although it is available in the states. I don't know which type you used but there is a superfine white which is better than the gray(grey). The other advantage of Apoxie Sculpt or Magic Sculpt is that they come in larger sizes, 1 and 5 lb
and are more economical

[Himmapaan]

Yes, the Superfine was better than the grey, but I still couldn't get on with it, unfortunately. 

[tyrantqueen]

Thanks Himmapaan and paleoferroequine. I am using superfine white 2 part Epoxy Milliput atm, but I will check out the brands you recommended 

[stoneage]

What PFE said. Also, it may simply be the brand of putty itself which is giving you trouble. I see you're using Miliput, which I'm afraid I thoroughly loathe. I found it coarse and unresponsive, and when I used more water to help, it simply slipped away like mud. It does well enough just filling gaps, but I couldn't sculpt happily with it or refine it enough for joins. I don't know if it might help if you left it for a while to actually start curing before trying to smooth it out. Otherwise, I recommend something like Aves Apoxie Sculpt for future projects. You will notice the difference by leagues.

Why is it called Aves Apoxie Sculpt?  Is it only for birds?

[tyrantqueen]

Why is it called Aves Apoxie Sculpt?  Is it only for birds?

Heh, predictable 

[brontodocus]

Hehe, no, "Aves" (or "Aves Studio") is the name of the manufacturer.

[Megalosaurus]

Hello.
I'm new in repainting figures. I've read the Cooper's Tutorial. But still I need help and tips with the acrylic paints.
1) How can I keep my paints workable? I mean, they dry to fast.
2) What proportion of paint and water should i mix to solid paint? What consistency should it have?
3) What proportion of paint and water should i mix to create a semitransparent layer? What consistency should it have?
4) Is there a guide on how to mix ACRILIC colors? I've painted with oleum over a canvas, and it was easier to mix colors and get what you want. But when trying to get a cream-yellowish with acrylics my result was salmon/fleshy.
4.a) How do i get a color similar to Papo Ankylosaurus lighter color?
5) How do you clean your 0 and 00 brushes? i don't want to ruin its fine tip.
6) How do i prepare the blackwash?
7) Is it better: A) imprint my figure with a medium base color and then shade and highlight. Or  B) imprint my figure with the darker color and then highlight and highlight even more.
Any other hint & tip for working with acrylics well be welcome.
Thanks.

[tyrantqueen]

Hello.
I'm new in repainting figures. I've read the Cooper's Tutorial. But still I need help and tips with the acrylic paints.
1) How can I keep my paints workable? I mean, they dry to fast.
2) What proportion of paint and water should i mix to solid paint? What consistency should it have?
3) What proportion of paint and water should i mix to create a semitransparent layer? What consistency should it have?
4) Is there a guide on how to mix ACRILIC colors? I've painted with oleum over a canvas, and it was easier to mix colors and get what you want. But when trying to get a cream-yellowish with acrylics my result was salmon/fleshy.
4.a) How do i get a color similar to Papo Ankylosaurus lighter color?
5) How do you clean your 0 and 00 brushes? i don't want to ruin its fine tip.
6) How do i prepare the blackwash?
7) Is it better: A) imprint my figure with a medium base color and then shade and highlight. Or  B) imprint my figure with the darker color and then highlight and highlight even more.
Any other hint & tip for working with acrylics well be welcome.
Thanks.

1. Maybe you could try retarder or water?
2. I prefer to use pure paint and no water, and least for the solid colours.
3. I'm not sure what you mean by semi transparent layer. Sorry :X
4. I guess it just takes practice. Maybe learn some basic colour theory? If you're really stuck perhaps you could consider this book or others like it http://www.amazon.co.uk/Acrylic-Mixing-Directory-Ian-Sidaway/dp/1560109033/ref=sr_1_8?ie=UTF8&qid=1340231154&sr=8-8
5. This guide explains it better than I could http://www.wikihow.com/Clean-a-Paintbrush I like to use Revell's paint cleaner to care for my brushes
6. Black wash? You mean a dark wash? Just mix a dark colour with some water. Ideally more water than paint.
7. It's better to start with a medium colour of the basic colour, and then darken and highlight IMO. It is important to layer acrylics, and if you make a mistake in one layer, it mucks the rest up. It is always easier to darken light than to lighten dark.

Excellent sites to check out if you're a noobie 
http://www.how-to-paint-miniatures.com/miniature_painting_drybrushing.html
http://www.scalemodelguide.com/guide/painting/paint-washes/

One more thing.....expect to make a lot of mistakes. Sometimes things can only be learned through trial and error. If you're a beginner it may be a good idea to practice on some cheap chinasaurs before moving onto Papo or Carnegies.

Hope this points you in the right direction

[Himmapaan]

Hello.
I'm new in repainting figures. I've read the Cooper's Tutorial. But still I need help and tips with the acrylic paints.
1) How can I keep my paints workable? I mean, they dry to fast.
2) What proportion of paint and water should i mix to solid paint? What consistency should it have?
3) What proportion of paint and water should i mix to create a semitransparent layer? What consistency should it have?
4) Is there a guide on how to mix ACRILIC colors? I've painted with oleum over a canvas, and it was easier to mix colors and get what you want. But when trying to get a cream-yellowish with acrylics my result was salmon/fleshy.
4.a) How do i get a color similar to Papo Ankylosaurus lighter color?
5) How do you clean your 0 and 00 brushes? i don't want to ruin its fine tip.
6) How do i prepare the blackwash?
7) Is it better: A) imprint my figure with a medium base color and then shade and highlight. Or  B) imprint my figure with the darker color and then highlight and highlight even more.
Any other hint & tip for working with acrylics well be welcome.
Thanks.

I think most of these tend towards personal working practices and preferences, in that there aren't really 'right' answers for them, only what serves your needs best.  As Tyrantqueen said, to find out what will work for you, I think you would need to experiment with a little trial and error.

However, as a guide from my own methods (which may not suit you):

1) Acrylic paints do dry very quickly. I'm afraid there's no way to prolong its working time. Rather, I try to circumvent mistakes by working with many, many thin layers.

2) I find 1:1 paint/water is a generally good mixture for covering large areas. This also helps prevent streaks and brushmarks. Otherwise, the ratio can vary as much as you like, depending on what you want to do. Experiment. 

3) Again, try it out to see how thinly you want your wash. It's hard to judge what you might regard as 'semi-transparent'. Perhaps you could start with a 1:1 mixture, then increase the water by gradual degrees in between trying the washes out on a scrap piece of paper.

4) Once again, I think this can only be something one finds out through trial and error. If you work with the acrylics specifically geared towards model painting, these can come in a far broader range of pre-mixed colours (accompanied with some fantastic and absurd names in equal measure  ) than fine artists' acrylics in tubes, and there may well be one which is already pretty close to what you're after. Tyrantqueen's book suggestion is also good.

5) What I tend to do is to wash the brushes often during the painting process to minimise clogging (by which I mean swivel them vigorously in your water jar, rather than getting up to the sink continually). Just as I do when painting watercolours, I have one very large jar of water for washing brushes alone, and one (sometimes two) smaller jars for mixing colours. This also prevents your colours being muddied. Then wash them thoroughly at the end of the session (Tyrantqueen's suggested instructions are good). Now and again throughout their life, treat your brushes to a wash with brush cleaners similar to this. Extremely fine brushes will eventually succumb to the rigours of acrylic paint, however, in which case they will simply need to be replaced.

6) I... am unsure what you mean by a blackwash. Other than diltuing black paint to the desired consistency. 

7) I personally prefer to work from the very lightest to dark. But many painters work differently. Starting with a mid-tone then darkening and highlighting seems to be a popular method.

[Megalosaurus]

Thanks both of you.

With semitransparent i mean a thin layer that lets you see whats lies behind. Like to write a text and then put a blue cristal over it, you see blue color but still can read clearly the text (just an example).

If someone else wants to answer my questions, i'll be grateful.

Very nice tutorials. Any other related will be welcome.

Thank you all.