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PWRXerXes's sculptures

Started by PWRXerXes, April 15, 2019, 01:05:47 PM

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PWRXerXes

Quote from: dinotoyforum on September 10, 2020, 10:15:09 PM
Very nice work. Something about your style is reminiscent of Forest Rogers' Carnegie Collections sculpts. That's a compliment, by the way!
Thank you:) I am very flattered :D


Bokisaurus

Looking good. I can't wait to see how that Smilodon turns out.

PWRXerXes

Quote from: Bokisaurus on September 11, 2020, 04:51:02 PM
Looking good. I can't wait to see how that Smilodon turns out.
Thanks :)
And here is smilodon. It could be finished I think but I bought milliput epoxy and somtimes gave it some new details. More fur or claws etc


Justin_

How are you finding working with Milliput compared to the polymer clay you were using? Was it Cernit?

I know some people mix a bit of black Milliput with the basic versions to make a grey that's easier to see fine details in.

PWRXerXes

#64
Quote from: Justin_ on September 12, 2020, 10:48:56 AM
How are you finding working with Milliput compared to the polymer clay you were using? Was it Cernit?

I know some people mix a bit of black Milliput with the basic versions to make a grey that's easier to see fine details in.

Milliput is more difficult in my opinion, it is harder to make smaller details.
But there are some advantages too. 1) it is harder and doesn't crack 2) it will stick to any surface you want 3) you don't need bake. 1) and 2) is essential for me.

I was using cernit and sometimes fimo

Shonisaurus

P @PWRXerXes Your smilodon has been very good, elegant and stylish. It is a small "work of art" my congratulations.

PWRXerXes

Quote from: Shonisaurus on September 12, 2020, 11:50:39 AM
P @PWRXerXes Your smilodon has been very good, elegant and stylish. It is a small "work of art" my congratulations.
Thanks:)

Justin_

Quote from: PWRXerXes on September 12, 2020, 11:30:01 AM
....
Milliput is more difficult in my opinion, it is harder to make smaller details.
But there are some advantages too. 1) it is harder and doesn't crack 2) it will stick to any surface you want 3) you don't need bake. 1) and 2) is essential for me.

I'm still trying to decide what my favorite sculpting materials are. One trick I recently learned with any epoxy is to stick it in place immediately when you first mix it, but then leave it for a while to harden before you start working fine details in. What I also like is that you can alter the consistency with different mix proportions. More hardener is good for things like horns that you can then sharpen and smooth by sanding, and it dries quicker. Less hardener gives a soft paste that is good for a final thin skin, with more time to add texture as it takes longer to set.

PWRXerXes

Quote from: Justin_ on September 14, 2020, 06:15:55 PM
Quote from: PWRXerXes on September 12, 2020, 11:30:01 AM
....
Milliput is more difficult in my opinion, it is harder to make smaller details.
But there are some advantages too. 1) it is harder and doesn't crack 2) it will stick to any surface you want 3) you don't need bake. 1) and 2) is essential for me.

I'm still trying to decide what my favorite sculpting materials are. One trick I recently learned with any epoxy is to stick it in place immediately when you first mix it, but then leave it for a while to harden before you start working fine details in. What I also like is that you can alter the consistency with different mix proportions. More hardener is good for things like horns that you can then sharpen and smooth by sanding, and it dries quicker. Less hardener gives a soft paste that is good for a final thin skin, with more time to add texture as it takes longer to set.
I do the same with epoxy:) I give it time and then make details

PWRXerXes

I am learning working with milliput epoxy. Unfortunately it s different from polymer clay and sculpture details are also different.
Here is sample of coat of big cat which I am trying to do (it is exercise)
What do you think of this "shape" of coat?
I need some help


Just say what do you think
Please give me your candid response


Justin_

At the moment I think it looks a bit more like feathers than fur. You might be able to carve more detail in with a sharp blade.

The problem for me is that since I've seen this picture of the Rebor Smilodon in progress, it has set a really high standard for how fur can be sculpted. Even though the main coat looks like wet fur there's finer, drier hair around the feet which I would use as a model.


Libraraptor

Doesn´t necessarily look like feathers, looks rather like wet fur.

PWRXerXes


PWRXerXes

2nd attempt
Is this fur better?

PWRXerXes

#74
It is not as good as I would like it to be but if I don't try I will never learn

Newt

It's looking good! One thing that really makes a difference with fur is getting the changes in direction right - the "seams" and whorls are more important IMO than the texture, which can never be fully replicated in clay anyways.

PWRXerXes

avatar_Newt @Newt is this fur looking as fur? If not I will do another

Justin_

It looks a lot better. It was a bit too straight before.

One good bit of advice I read about sculpting fur is to first of all draw fur textures on paper at the same scale you'd be sculpting them. Once your happy with a drawn texture you should have "muscle memory" in your hand and fingers to sculpt it. What is good about this is that there are far more tutorials online and in books for drawing fur rather than sculpting it.

Newt

Quote from: PWRXerXes on September 30, 2020, 09:04:56 AM
avatar_Newt @Newt is this fur looking as fur? If not I will do another


The fur texture looks good! Sorry if my comment seemed to imply otherwise; I could have worded it better.


My previous comment is in regards to areas you haven't gotten to yet, such as the elbow, pectoral area, and belly, where the fur should noticeably change direction. You can see a bit of that in this photo:



PWRXerXes


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