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avatar_Himmapaan

Customising Hints, Tips and FAQs

Started by Himmapaan, May 10, 2012, 07:29:20 AM

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jooooo

Quote from: SuperiorSpider on January 05, 2017, 08:23:53 PM
Quote from: Jonagold2000 on January 05, 2017, 07:18:34 PM
Although I'm still a bit iffy. I've never done it before and I'm afraid the reposing will go horribly wrong.

As far as I can tell you can´t really do damage to figures by reposing. Just do it in small steps, if you feel weird about it. Practising is always a good idea, though.

By going wrong I mostly ment that it looked terrible, sorry for the bad wording.


PumperKrickel

#241
deleted

Tyto_Theropod

Quote from: stargatedalek on January 05, 2017, 09:12:47 PM
As for eyes, I don't remember which is which but either dark or light bands draw light away from the eyes which helps them see in bright areas, and vice versa.

I think I may be ale to help here. Dark colours are absorptive and so dark colouring around the eyes is believed to be an adaptation to reduce glare. Therefore, I'd expect to see it in a diurnal species that lived in an environment where it was very sunny a lot of the time (as with the meerkat), or where it was looking at surfaces with a lot of glare such as snow, water, ice or pale sand (as with the swan), and I believe it has been theorised to improve night vision as well, in the case of animals like raccoons. Some examples of animals with this colouration:





However, many animals that are active in low-light conditions (lions, for example, are most active at night) have pale colouring around their eyes. Pale colours are reflective and the theory is that the pale patches around the eyes help to reflect more light into the eye and therefore enhance the animal's vision. Some examples:





The last one is conjectural on my part, but I did notice that many nocturnal or crepuscular owls in the Strigidae have pale 'moustaches' and I wondered if they might serve a similar purpose to the eye markings seen in many cats.

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LeapingLaelaps

Just got a bunch of stuff yesterday so I can start repainting and I had a few questions. My primer (Behr All-in-one primer and sealer) works fine, but I'm having trouble with the paints. I got some "The Fine Touch" Acrylics and they're really thick and blobby, when I try to paint small details or stripes they end up really messy and/or lumpy. It's also really glossy and shiny. I haven't tried sealing yet but I've got Tree House Studio Clear Acrylic Matte Coating.

Also can anyone link me to Copper's tutorial? I would really like to see it but every other link for it in this thread just sends me back to the ImageShack homepage and it's getting frustrating.

Should I ditch the acrylics and get some Vallejo or Tamiya? Or is it the brushes I'm using? (I've got Royal Crafter's Choice) Am I just doing it wrong?

PumperKrickel

#244
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LeapingLaelaps

Quote from: SuperiorSpider on April 20, 2017, 08:03:05 PM
Quote from: Rhamphorhynchus on April 20, 2017, 07:39:54 PM
I got some "The Fine Touch" Acrylics and they're really thick and blobby, when I try to paint small details or stripes they end up really messy and/or lumpy. It's also really glossy and shiny. I haven't tried sealing yet but I've got Tree House Studio Clear Acrylic Matte Coating.
Should I ditch the acrylics and get some Vallejo or Tamiya? Or is it the brushes I'm using? (I've got Royal Crafter's Choice) Am I just doing it wrong?

Sounds like the colours are indeed the problem. You could try paint thinner, but just getting some Vallejos or Tamiyas might be easier. Personally I prefer Vallejo, but both are very good.

Ok, thank you!

Halichoeres

I've sometimes mixed acrylics with water. Might be worth trying before going and buying new paints.
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LeapingLaelaps

Quote from: Halichoeres on April 20, 2017, 08:33:32 PM
I've sometimes mixed acrylics with water. Might be worth trying before going and buying new paints.

I did try, but they just ended up running everywhere and dripping down the figure. I might keep them to use for washes or something.

LeapingLaelaps



So I left my test figure to dry last night (after putting the matte coating on it) and this morning I tested to see how it dried and spots started peeling off to reveal the figurine underneath. It looks like the primer I used didn't help at all. I only put one coat on so I didn't obscure details, should I have added another coat? Did it not work because the primer was an all-in-one primer and sealer? Did I not let it dry long enough or something?

It's not really a big deal if it's the primer, my dad does construction work so I suppose I can just give it to him (it's Behr Premium Plus). Do you guys have any brands you recommend, preferably something I can order/buy in the USA?

Also does Copper's tutorial still exist? Like I said before I'd love to see it but all the links redirect me to the Imageshack homepage  :-\

Patrx

I can't really answer any questions about primer; I don't really use it (I probably should.)
However! I do have a working link to Copper's tutorial:

stargatedalek

#250
I never use primer, if I need to I'll use an undercoating of paint. If the paint if coming off a primer underneath won't change that, it's either the paint itself being damaged, or the figure is to soft and the plastic is flexing.

Did you put a matte sealant on over top of the paint? That's all I ever need to do.

LeapingLaelaps

#251
Quote from: stargatedalek on April 21, 2017, 04:35:52 PM
I never use primer, if I need to I'll use an undercoating of paint. If the paint if coming off a primer underneath won't change that, it's either the paint itself being damaged, or the figure is to soft and the plastic is flexing.

Did you put a matte sealant on over top of the paint? That's all I ever need to do.

The figure I painted is actually pretty bendy, it's an old Carnegie rex (the green one with orange details). I put one coat of Tree House Studio Clear Acrylic Matte Coating on it, maybe that wasn't enough. I started peeling at the paint and it pulls off with the primer on the bottom. Maybe the Primer has trouble sticking to the material of the figure ???

Also thank you so much to Patrx for posting the tutorial! ;D

*Edit Just painted the Carnegie Carcharo with the same primer as the rex, the primer itself is really easy to peel off. I think I'm gonna try a two coats of paint. I don't know if it's the material/flexibility of the figures or what but I'm gonna try doing two layers of paint instead of a primer just to see if that makes it better.

Also, the Rex is now pretty sticky to the point that the skin on my finger clings to it when I try to pull away. I don't know if it's the sealer I used or what but I think I'll try to find something else :/

*Edit again has anyone used this brand before? https://www.amazon.com/Liquitex-Professional-Matte-Varnish-16-oz/dp/B001URYJ72/ref=sr_1_5?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1492812028&sr=1-5&keywords=Matte+water+based+finish. Might get some of this stuff and the high gloss for eyes/mouth/etc.

Fenestra

As far as I know, most toy figures have some kind of protective coat to prevent paint rubs when kids play with them.
And model kits always have a greasy coat to prevent them from sticking to the mold.
That's why I always give anything I want to repaint a very firm scrub with hot water and dish detergent before I put on any primer.
(Resin model kits even get a 24/48 hour soak in a bucket filled with it.)

One good coat of primer should always do the trick.
If it doesn't stick in one go, something on your model is still greasy. Scrub, scrub, scrub.  ;D

I have put several repainted models under the tap because I didn't like the outcome.
I could scrub all the acrylic paint off, right down to the primer.

The primer wouldn't budge.



Pachyrhinosaurus

I'm in the process of building up a kit (Paleocraft Dunkleosteus) and it's getting frustrating keeping the brush hairs off the model. Are there any good techniques to remove and keep brush hairs off?
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PumperKrickel

#254
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Fenestra

#255
I agree with SuperiorSpider.
Buy better brushes.
They will cost €/$ 3-4 a piece, but they won't shed, last a long time and keep their shape after cleaning.
Problem solved.
8)

Pachyrhinosaurus

#256
Okay, thanks. I'll definitely look into higher end brushes. I only ever bought $3 or $5 packs since I really put my paintbrushes through a lot of abuse with my painting style... didn't want to spend too much on something that won't last long, but then better brushes should last longer as well.

Also while I'm here, has anyone else put together Sean Cooper's dunkleosteus recently? It's really difficult to fit the jaw in properly. I'm not sure if I should sand the jaw or somehow remove material from the sockets; otherwise there's a gap between the tongue and the back of the mouth.
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Paleodude

Does anyone know a good starting set of acrylics that would work for repainting? I've used miniature paint before but it never seems to stick on any models even when a layer of primer was applied.

Pachyrhinosaurus

Quote from: Paleodude on May 16, 2017, 03:04:27 AM
Does anyone know a good starting set of acrylics that would work for repainting? I've used miniature paint before but it never seems to stick on any models even when a layer of primer was applied.

I started out with this set and still use their larger tubes:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002AT2Y4Y/ref=asc_df_B002AT2Y4Y4985308/?tag=hyprod-20&creative=394997&creativeASIN=B002AT2Y4Y&linkCode=df0&hvadid=167129414796&hvpos=1o3&hvnetw=g&hvrand=14516652413076956894&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9006773&hvtargid=pla-306061341064

I prefer these paints but others use the fifty cent craft store bottles, too.
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LeapingLaelaps



Anyone have any suggestions for an air dry clay I can used to repair her botched nose job? I've had this figure since I was a little kid and I was a destructive little goblin and enjoyed "customizing" my toys.

I'm gonna repaint her as well since she's very well used so I need something that's paintable. I was thinking of embedding a metal rod into her face and then building the clay up around it for added security but I'm open to suggestions!

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