Customising Hints, Tips and FAQs

[Megalosaurus]

***Primer doesn't dry***
There isn't any hobby stores in my city, so I bought a primer like this:


I primed some figures to get a even white color, but 2 days latter the primer is still tacky/sticky.
Is there something I can do to ensure it dryes properly?

PD.- Is very hot in here 40+ celsius at noon.

[Lanthanotus]

Not about primer, but I found that the same paint used on different figures (different materials from the touch) results in totally dry surfaces or sticky surfaces where dust sticks unfortunately. Have no real explanation for, since I use water based acrylics and those don't react with their surfaces...

[Syndicate Bias]

you need a can of matte varnish it gets rid of the stickiness of figures that you paint. Keeps dust off of them this way. It's what I do after a repaint. Once its dry it's just like any other dinosaur figure you find at the store.

[triceratops83]

If anyone can help me out real quick I'd be grateful - is Sculpey supposed to turn out kinda rubbery after baking or is it supposed to be hard like clay?

EDIT - stupidly went ahead with this experiment without researching it. All turned out well.

I know this was the wrong thread to have posted in, but do we have a similar one just for sculpting?

[Halichoeres]

If anyone can help me out real quick I'd be grateful - is Sculpey supposed to turn out kinda rubbery after baking or is it supposed to be hard like clay?

EDIT - stupidly went ahead with this experiment without researching it. All turned out well.

I know this was the wrong thread to have posted in, but do we have a similar one just for sculpting?

Not that I know of. There are bits and pieces all over, but maybe it would be good to start a thread like that?

[Justin_]

Any recommendations of a glue that sticks the soft, slightly shiny plastics used for artificial plants?
I've had no luck with superglue. Wood glue kind-of works as long as the finished piece is handled really carefully. Gorilla glue might, but the way it expands a lot will probably end up not looking right. I haven't tried 2-part epoxy, mainly because it's hard to mix just the tiny amounts I need. What I have found works is greenstuff putty, but that is more like a binding outside the parts I want to join rather than a glue between them.

[paintingdinos]

Any recommendations of a glue that sticks the soft, slightly shiny plastics used for artificial plants?
I've had no luck with superglue. Wood glue kind-of works as long as the finished piece is handled really carefully. Gorilla glue might, but the way it expands a lot will probably end up not looking right. I haven't tried 2-part epoxy, mainly because it's hard to mix just the tiny amounts I need. What I have found works is greenstuff putty, but that is more like a binding outside the parts I want to join rather than a glue between them.

What sort of surface are you trying to affix them to? If you're trying to add them to a base, regular craft tacky glue should work just fine for plastis-to-plastic or for things like styrofoam.

It might be harder to use when gluing to a wood base. The easiest fix for that would probably be drilling a small hole in the base and sticking the plant in that.

Regardless of the glue you pick, you're probably going to have to be careful with it. If you plan on being rough with the base and need an extremely strong bond, then probably a 2-part epoxy is best. You can find ones much cheaper than greenstuff, so you won't feel so bad mixing up extra. Or just use the extra to sculpt a few rocks or something for your next base, that's what I try and do.

[Justin_]

I'm wanting to stick bits of them to each other. For example trimming sections off a life-size fern, then joining the stems of those together to make a miniature fern. Fixing the final plant to a base isn't problem as I'd be drilling a hole.

My first reference to 2-part epoxy was the adhesives in double-barreled syringes rather than putties. I get greenstuff comparatively cheaply and I like it's plastic-y quality, and the fact that it's already coloured green, plus it's easy to mix really tiny amounts. The other epoxies I use are Milliput and a similar thing that's manufactured for wood repair and cures much quicker, but those are too grainy for tiny work like this.

I should also give a contact adhesive like Bostick or UHU a go, since they're recommended for flexible materials.
I've never tried tacky glue for anything. I keep meaning to buy some.

[bettashark]

Ok, talk to me about sealers!
I know people like matte sealers, but what brands? I have some from Mod Podge, would that work?
On a different note, are glossy sealers ok to use? I picked up some Aleene's glossy acrylic sealer for smooth aquatic creatures. Is this acceptable, or should I hold out for Krylon, or do gloss sealers cause problems?

[Newt]

I'll be interested to see the replies to this question. I know a lot of garage kit painters swear by Future floor wax (apparently now renamed Pledge Floor Gloss, but I don't know if it's exactly the same as the old Future). I've used acrylic matte medium as a sealer for some of my polymer clay sculptures and it seems to work fine, but do spring for a name brand; store brand medium tends to have a lumpy texture. Spray-on water-based furniture finishes such as Polycrylic are an option as well. They're certainly durable, the only question would be how they look.

[paintingdinos]

I use Testors Dullcote for a matte varnish (both spray on and paint on). All the other matte brands I've tried leave just a hint of shine to them, including liquitex which I otherwise prefer. For a more glossy varnish I use liquitex satin varnish.

I don't usually bother with a high gloss varnish. Even on aquatic models or on "wet" parts like the mouth/eyes, I don't want a mirror shine. The moderate amount of light reflection from satin typically looks more natural.

[Dusty Wren]

@paintingdinos, where do you get your Dullcote from? On Amazon, the listings for Dullcote show photos of cans that say Clear Coat on the label (like this listing here) so I wasn't sure if they'd rebranded the product or if the Amazon sellers were getting the name wrong.

I've also had Liquitex matte varnish leave a plastic-y shine on sculptures. Some toy customizers swear by Mr. Super Clear when it comes to a matte finish, so I just bought a can and am going to try it out. 

[paintingdinos]

@paintingdinos, where do you get your Dullcote from? On Amazon, the listings for Dullcote show photos of cans that say Clear Coat on the label (like this listing here) so I wasn't sure if they'd rebranded the product or if the Amazon sellers were getting the name wrong.

I've also had Liquitex matte varnish leave a plastic-y shine on sculptures. Some toy customizers swear by Mr. Super Clear when it comes to a matte finish, so I just bought a can and am going to try it out.

That looks to be the right product. I don't know why they don't say "dullcote" on the label for the spray can but the label is the same one I have and it is for sure matte.

Interesting about Mr. Super Clear, I'll have to test that one out.

[Dusty Wren]

Thanks for the clarification! Was afraid of accidentally buying the wrong stuff.

I'm going to pick up some of the Testors to try, too. Mr. Super Clear is pretty cheap on Amazon right now, but the price can vary wildly. I'd like to have other options for sealants.

[Tyto_Theropod]

This may seem a bit irrelevant given the previous discussion, but I've been doing some more research into sealants and I've decided to try using methods that are less hazardous - particularly as I don't have much working space and the weather isn't always suitable for spraying outside.  Besides, not only do I have pets, but also the garden tends to have lots of little maniraptorans hanging out in it at any given time, and I don't want to make them ill anymore than I want to get sick myself.

Firstly, despite what people are saying about its not being as matte as some others, I want to try using Liquitex matte varnish, and I'd like to experiment with airbrushing it on.  I've never used an airbrush before, so does anyone here have any recommendations for something that might work for applying sealant to a model?  I don't really want to spend more than £150, although I theoretically could do, and I'd prefer a brush and compressor that aren't really heavy and don't take up too much room.  Obviously, I also want something that's beginner friendly!

My other question is, does anyone know it if works to apply a layer of your sealant as a primer to give your surface more 'tooth', or, alternatively, does anyone have any brush-on primer recommendations?

[Stegotyranno420]

Unrelated but i found something cool about spray sealers

What i do that when i spray sealent on my repaint, either i leave it by a fan in a room, or on a windy day with a weight attached to it. It drys faster, and it doesnt become sticky or distorts the texture. Before i'd just leave it like that then it will become sticky and gooey with dust and hair stuck to it. But one day i was painting outside and i left my figure out by accident. I saw how amazingly and durably protected it started to look. Once again, you can do it indoors with a fan facing it for 20-80 minutes. Awesome stragety

[PumperKrickel]

My other question is, does anyone know it if works to apply a layer of your sealant as a primer to give your surface more 'tooth'?

It definitely does. I usually mix a little of the base colour into my sealer when I do this, but it should work well regardless. I actually use regular old Mod Podge with a brush as a primer and sealer. It's waterbased, so there are no nasty surprises in how it interacts with different plastics and acrylics, it's non-toxic and really cheap. It does however have a slightly glossy surface when dry, even the matte one does. Might be worth a try.

[Tyto_Theropod]

Thanks, P @PumperKrickel, that's really interesting to know.  It would be nice to see pictures of your results, but I can't seem to find that you've posted any.  Perhaps I could do Mod Podge base + Liquitex final layer?  Would that be possible?  Regardless, I'll have to do some experimenting once I've got a craft space organised.

[bettashark]

I've been working a lot with epoxy putty lately, so here are my best tips for using it.
A damp finger is ideal for blending and smoothing. That way the epoxy won't stick to you.
Once it's set, epoxy is very easy to sand. For small jobs, nail files work nicely. However, set epoxy is very difficult to sculpt. Add your textures while it's still malleable!
Epoxy won't stick to silicone, so a silicone mat (or a hot pad) is a nice surface to work on, and silicone tools are easiest to use.
After a little experimenting, I can officially say that epoxy putty can be made much stronger and less brittle by adding a little finely-shredded paper. Soft, fluffy papers, such as toilet paper or tissues, probably work best for this. It also makes the putty significantly stiffer, which means it doesn't flop over as easily. It does have a bit of a lumpy texture in spots, but that's probably due to poor shredding on my part. Give it a shot next time you're modifying things!

[Halichoeres]

Thanks, those are useful tips. I'd never have thought of mixing in paper.