Shapeways

[Derek Sohoza]

How much of a difference is there between the white, strong, & flexible models and the frosted detail ones? Do the frosted ones really have that much more detail worth spending extra money on?

I'd say no, since with FD you get the extra risk of breakage because the material is rather brittle. I have never had a WSF break, but the few FD I did order have snapped if handled roughly or dropped. If you want more detail, I'd reccommend FUD (frosted ultra detail). It's also nice and solid, and much more pleasant to paint than WSF (which is horrible to paint, to be honest)

That's a bit weird that the FUD would be more solid and less breakable than the FD. I would've expected the opposite. What makes the WSF so horrible to paint? I paint all my not-already-painted models gray, so I'm not sure if that aspect would be a deciding factor.

Frosted detail is hollow, which is probably why it's cheaper (and more fragile)

Regarding WSF, the material is very coarse and sucks up paint like nobody's business. It takes several layers of "filling" in the coarseness to get a satisfactorily smooth finish. This consumes a lot of paint and eats away at the hairs on paintbrushes (at least in my experience) That's why I prime mine, so I don't have to waste paint.
I'm not saying I hate WSF (it's good for what you pay for) but it can be a pain to paint.

Of course, your mileage may vary

Makes sense. I suppose I'll have to buy one in WSF and see how I like it. I have primer, so the coarseness may not be a problem, but I won't know for sure until I get one.

You'll still need to use many layers of primer (I meant that I would rather use up a lot of primer, because I have a big bottle of the stuff, while I don't have as much paint)

You might need to give your new model a quick wash in the sink before doing any priming or painting work, because leftover nylon powder from the laser process can collect in crevices and is very annoying.

I will definitely keep that in mind. How many layers of primer do you use?

[tyrantqueen]

How much of a difference is there between the white, strong, & flexible models and the frosted detail ones? Do the frosted ones really have that much more detail worth spending extra money on?

I'd say no, since with FD you get the extra risk of breakage because the material is rather brittle. I have never had a WSF break, but the few FD I did order have snapped if handled roughly or dropped. If you want more detail, I'd reccommend FUD (frosted ultra detail). It's also nice and solid, and much more pleasant to paint than WSF (which is horrible to paint, to be honest)

That's a bit weird that the FUD would be more solid and less breakable than the FD. I would've expected the opposite. What makes the WSF so horrible to paint? I paint all my not-already-painted models gray, so I'm not sure if that aspect would be a deciding factor.

Frosted detail is hollow, which is probably why it's cheaper (and more fragile)

Regarding WSF, the material is very coarse and sucks up paint like nobody's business. It takes several layers of "filling" in the coarseness to get a satisfactorily smooth finish. This consumes a lot of paint and eats away at the hairs on paintbrushes (at least in my experience) That's why I prime mine, so I don't have to waste paint.
I'm not saying I hate WSF (it's good for what you pay for) but it can be a pain to paint.

Of course, your mileage may vary

Makes sense. I suppose I'll have to buy one in WSF and see how I like it. I have primer, so the coarseness may not be a problem, but I won't know for sure until I get one.

You'll still need to use many layers of primer (I meant that I would rather use up a lot of primer, because I have a big bottle of the stuff, while I don't have as much paint)

You might need to give your new model a quick wash in the sink before doing any priming or painting work, because leftover nylon powder from the laser process can collect in crevices and is very annoying.

I will definitely keep that in mind. How many layers of primer do you use?

Hmm...I don't really keep count. I rely more on looking at the surface of the model to see if the coarseness has disappeared or not. I guess maybe 2-3 layers?

Also you can just paint the model with any primer or layering at all, but I think it looks much better when the coarseness is gone. It's a lot easier to get details too. I would suggest that you experiment but since these are expensive models that is not always an option.

If you need more advice on painting Shapeways models, see here http://www.shapeways.com/tutorials/painting3dprintedsls Check out the video tutorial with the Dutch guy too

Some interesting things mentioned in the link:

Painting your Selective Laser Sintered model will change its texture. The powdery finish will feel much smoother after two coats have been applied. You might like this but you might miss it also.

Because of this the material "sucks in" paint. Thin layers of your model are easily penetrated by paint.

[Derek Sohoza]

How much of a difference is there between the white, strong, & flexible models and the frosted detail ones? Do the frosted ones really have that much more detail worth spending extra money on?

I'd say no, since with FD you get the extra risk of breakage because the material is rather brittle. I have never had a WSF break, but the few FD I did order have snapped if handled roughly or dropped. If you want more detail, I'd reccommend FUD (frosted ultra detail). It's also nice and solid, and much more pleasant to paint than WSF (which is horrible to paint, to be honest)

That's a bit weird that the FUD would be more solid and less breakable than the FD. I would've expected the opposite. What makes the WSF so horrible to paint? I paint all my not-already-painted models gray, so I'm not sure if that aspect would be a deciding factor.

Frosted detail is hollow, which is probably why it's cheaper (and more fragile)

Regarding WSF, the material is very coarse and sucks up paint like nobody's business. It takes several layers of "filling" in the coarseness to get a satisfactorily smooth finish. This consumes a lot of paint and eats away at the hairs on paintbrushes (at least in my experience) That's why I prime mine, so I don't have to waste paint.
I'm not saying I hate WSF (it's good for what you pay for) but it can be a pain to paint.

Of course, your mileage may vary

Makes sense. I suppose I'll have to buy one in WSF and see how I like it. I have primer, so the coarseness may not be a problem, but I won't know for sure until I get one.

You'll still need to use many layers of primer (I meant that I would rather use up a lot of primer, because I have a big bottle of the stuff, while I don't have as much paint)

You might need to give your new model a quick wash in the sink before doing any priming or painting work, because leftover nylon powder from the laser process can collect in crevices and is very annoying.

I will definitely keep that in mind. How many layers of primer do you use?

Hmm...I don't really keep count. I rely more on looking at the surface of the model to see if the coarseness has disappeared or not. I guess maybe 2-3 layers?

Also you can just paint the model with any primer or layering at all, but I think it looks much better when the coarseness is gone. It's a lot easier to get details too. I would suggest that you experiment but since these are expensive models that is not always an option.

If you need more advice on painting Shapeways models, see here http://www.shapeways.com/tutorials/painting3dprintedsls Check out the video tutorial with the Dutch guy too

Some interesting things mentioned in the link:

Painting your Selective Laser Sintered model will change its texture. The powdery finish will feel much smoother after two coats have been applied. You might like this but you might miss it also.

Because of this the material "sucks in" paint. Thin layers of your model are easily penetrated by paint.

Ha, those seem like two contradicting statements, at least in theory. I would think a powdery finish would make it frustrating to paint and wouldn't turn out smooth at all. I can just picture the paint job turning out patchy.

Another interesting quote I found just before you get to the video:

No primer is necessary.

[tyrantqueen]

Well, the primer is more a personal preference thing. It's not essential but many people do like to use it. Like I said before, I don't want to waste paint on filling in the coarse surface. I'm sure you'll get a feel for which technique to use when you have the model in your own hands

[Derek Sohoza]

Well, the primer is more a personal preference thing. It's not essential but many people do like to use it. Like I said before, I don't want to waste paint on filling in the coarse surface. I'm sure you'll get a feel for which technique to use when you have the model in your own hands

Have you bought any in White Detail? It's slightly cheaper than FUD.

[tyrantqueen]

I've bought models in WSF, FD and FUD....but I haven't tried white detail yet, because many of the models I ordered had only WSF or FD as an option. It might be something to consider in future. I usually go for WSF because it's cheapest.

You should ask Postsaurischian for his opinion on that material, he's a shapeways veteran

[Derek Sohoza]

That's the main reason I was considering WSF as well.
Thank you for the recommendation. I sent him a message.

[tyrantqueen]

It's a surprise that no-one has produced a model of any prehistoric aquatic reptile yet. There is a elasmosaurus type model, but it's for sale for 600 euros, not exactly economical

[radman]

It's a surprise that no-one has produced a model of any prehistoric aquatic reptile yet. There is a elasmosaurus type model, but it's for sale for 600 euros, not exactly economical

Aquatic reptiles, you mean like this?:




http://www.dinotoyblog.com/forum/index.php/topic,743.msg27213.html#msg27213

[tyrantqueen]

It's a surprise that no-one has produced a model of any prehistoric aquatic reptile yet. There is a elasmosaurus type model, but it's for sale for 600 euros, not exactly economical

Aquatic reptiles, you mean like this?:

The Ichthyosaurs look good...but I would have liked some mosasaurs, or pliosaurs. Some variety, you know?

[Bokisaurus]

finally finished painting some figures
Parasaurolophus, Olorotitan, Centrosaurus, and Chasmosaurus
[]

[Blade-of-the-Moon]

Really digging the hadrosaurs colors Boki !

[Battatitan]

Amazing colours, Boki, perfect for such great models.  The use of bright colours is truly magnificent: striking but believable.

[Bokisaurus]

Last ones
[]

[Blade-of-the-Moon]

NICE paint apps again Boki !

[Ikessauro]

Terrific paintjobs! I wish I knew how to do such a great work Boki! I'm about to starting on this painting stuff, ordered some acrylic paint this week. I'm not sure if I'll be able to do anything as good as you have though. Do you use any sort of airbrush?

[Concavenator]

I especially like Chasmosaurus'paint app 

[Bokisaurus]

Terrific paintjobs! I wish I knew how to do such a great work Boki! I'm about to starting on this painting stuff, ordered some acrylic paint this week. I'm not sure if I'll be able to do anything as good as you have though. Do you use any sort of airbrush?

Ah, thank you  Still lots to learn, took many years of practice I don't use airbrush at all, just a lot of dry brushing to get that effect. Looking forward to your repaints

[amargasaurus cazaui]

Yay love that Yinlong hiding in the bunch.....very nice !!!

[Bokisaurus]

Yay love that Yinlong hiding in the bunch.....very nice !!!

Thanks, it is a beautiful model 
Last few figures I finished painting... finally! These are the 1:72 scale figures set of duckbills, so they are small and a challenge to paint! All by mb-cg
[

And for scale, also find the small troodon among the herd
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